Blitz or flash freely translated into the flash. This is one accessory that is widely used in the world of photography. Its main function is to illuminate (mencahayai / illuminated) objects to the lack of light exposure well. But later began expanding its use to produce artistic photographs. This article will discuss the basic knowledge required to use the flash correctly.
Using the flash is not merely a flash light, directing the camera and click and be a bright picture, but there are things we need to know for the sake of getting a good photographic work.
Blitz and GN (Guide Number)
To divide / classify blitz, there are several classifications that can be used. The first, based on the availability of the camera flash is divided into the built-in flash and external. Built-in flash from the camera itself while the external flash is a flash attached additional cables or hot shoe to the camera. In addition, we also can divide by the type / brand of camera.
We know the dedicated flash and non-dedicated flash. Dedicated flash flash is made specifically to use certain features within a specific camera. Usually the camera manufacturer-specific flash out also for the camera range and can use features such as TTL, slow sync or rear sync, etc.. While non-dedicated flash has the general functions of most of the camera alone and can be used regardless of the type / brand of camera. Flash this type usually require a lot of computation because the flash is already dedicated've got the information from the camera lighting so that does not require additional settings again.
There are also flash output power (GN) can be arranged and some are not able to (fixed GN). We'll tend to talk more about the flash non-dedicated, non-TTL, and fixed GN.
In using flash photography, we will not escape from the calculations related to the intensity of light reflected back from objects that we cahayai. Therefore, we will see what is often called the GN (Guide Number) or flash power. In short we can say if flashnya powerful, it will be one object with mencahayai lighter and can reach more distant objects.
GN is basically a simple calculation of flash power. There are 2 kinds of writing GN using a different calculation of unit m (meters) and feet (feet). Normally in Indonesia, we use the count to m. This is one of the considerations are also due to flash with the same strength, the number GN m and different feet away. In addition, GN is generally written for the use of film with ISO / ASA 100 and wide angle (35mm/24mm/20mm).
GN is a product of the distance from the opening (f / stop or aperture) in certain conditions (ISO / ASA 100/35mm/m or ISO / ASA 100/35mm/feet). For example, if we want to use flash to photograph a person standing at a distance of 5m from us using a 35mm lens and we want to use f/2.8 then we need to flash GN 14. Calculation commonly used is usually just find the right aperture for a particular blitz. For example, the GN 28 will flash to photograph the object is 5m that we will use f/5.6.
GN is only a guide for photographers. Not set in stone. Which affected a few. One of them is the ISO / ASA is used. Each 1-stop increase in ISO / ASA will cause GN increased by sqrt (2) or approximately 1.4 times (or the farthest distance multiplied by 1.4) and 2-stop improvement in ISO / ASA will cause GN increased 2 times (or the farthest distance multiplied by 2 ).
Indoor Flash
Blitz often even almost always used in the room. The reason is because in the room lighting is usually somewhat less bright light to produce images that can be seen. Indeed, there is a technique using a slow shutter speed to capture more light, but this usually causes a rather blurry picture because the cameraman's hand shake and the movement of people who want us to photograph. Therefore, we usually use a flash.
Its use is usually simple. We can set a digital camera on auto and let it do its work or it could be our own setting using the calculations done above. Not difficult. Only, there are some things we need to consider in order to get maximum results.
1. Do not take pictures of objects that are too close to the flash straight faced. Take for example the flash GN 20 which I think is adequate as an external flash for digital cameras in an indoor shooting in a room (not the hall). If we want to mention the shooting at a distance of 2 meters with ISO / ASA 200 then we need f/16 is not available in most of the PDC and will produce images over. Therefore, for the PDC / DSC are usually already have a built-in flash to TTL and has the GN rather small (8-12 on the part of the PDC, the Nikon 12-14). Use it instead of an external flash to objects rather close.
2. Combine flash with slow shutter speed to get the main object tercahayai well and has a background light sources are also well captured. This is a technique that's worth a try, and often produces a beautiful picture. Do not be afraid to use a low speed because the object that was subjected to flash will be recorded freeze (freeze).
3. When the room was quite dark, beware of the red-eye effect / red eye effect. This red-eye effect occurs because the pupils are dilated to familiarize yourself with the light but rather darkness suddenly startled a very bright light from the flash. If the camera and / or flash is pre-flash/red eye reduction facility, use it. If not, change the angle akali with a flash of light coming directly not to the eye.
4. In the room there was a strong light source like a spotlight. Avoid taking pictures with facing directly into the strong light source but want to get a silhouette that is not perfect (compensation under 1 to 2 stops for a good silhouette). In this case, use flash to fill in / illuminated object that you want photographed.
Bounce / diffuse
Flash is a source of very strong light. In addition, the flash is the light that comes from a small light source (narrow). Therefore, if the light is exposed directly to an object will cause harsh lighting (harsh). In most of the documentation photographs of personal consumption where officers documentation using point & shoot camera (film / digital) can be accepted. But in a higher level where the results of these photographs will become public consumption, hard path of light will give effect less unsightly. Plus this will usually cause a flash of light bleaching thing was a little white and cause certain details disappear.
There are several ways that we can do to avoid this in terms of softening the light:
1. Expanding the field came to light that is reflected into other areas (bounce).
2. Spreading the light coming from a small source is so widespread (diffuse).
Bounce flash is done by reflecting the flash into a broad field so that the light comes in a wider angle. We can use the ceiling or wall in the room. If the external flash mounted on a digital camera connected via hot shoe, then the flash should have a tilt facility to reflect light. If the synchro is connected via cable, then we can put flash on a bracket with a position facing upwards / sideways or hold such positions.
Reflect the correct position so the light falls exactly on the object is to confront these flash on the ceiling in the middle of the photographer / flash and the object.
Some things we need to consider the use of bounce flash is:
1. The distance to calculate the f / stop change is not a distance camera and the object, but turned into the distance traveled by the light flash. Normally at 45 ° tilt angle we will widen the aperture 1 stop and the tilt angle of 90 ° we widen the aperture by 2 stops. Surely this is only a brief guide. Depending on the technical implementation in the field.
2. Related to no. 1 above, the langit-langit/dinding distance should not be too far or it will be useless.
3. Always use a white reflective areas and dark. Color other than white will cause the color contaminated image and the dark color will absorb the light flash.
4. Note the appearance of the image can occur on the other side of light. For example, if we reflect on the ceiling we will get a shadow under the nose or chin and if we reflect at the wall on the left then there will be shadows on the right. To overcome this we can put a bounce card on the front of the flash so that when we reflect the light up / side we still have a light that is not too strong which leads to the front and neutralize shadow appears.
To take a photo in the vertical, would be easier if we use a cable connection because we can easily expose flash upward when using brackets or held. But if our connection is hot shoe flash then make sure we have a swivel head so the facility can we play is facing up. Even better if we have a flash that can be tilt and swivel. This will accommodate most of our needs.
Another way to soften the light is to expand dispersinya. How to use flash diffuser. Flash diffuser will spread the light out of the flash in all directions so that light does not come out hard. Special diffuser generally available for a particular flash head flash considering different. We can also make your own flash diffuser for us to use the various tools.
When we use a diffuser, we actually block certain areas of the light flash and turn it into another place. This reduces the power of flash that we use it. If we use a diffuser which is the result of buying, then we can read how much compensation we need aperture when calculating exposure. Usually found on the box or paper manual. If we decide to make your own, then we can perform the experiment many times to get the right numbers required to compensate other times.
Outdoor Flash
Brief if we think about using flash, then we'll know if it applies to an atmosphere of lack of light shooting. Therefore, we are not thinking about the need for flash in outdoor photography (during the day, of course) because the sun was very bright. This is where our mistake begins. Flash is required to shoot outdoors, especially on:
1. Condition object back to the sun. In these conditions, the camera meter will think the atmosphere was light enough so it will cause the object to be photographed the dark / under strong light such as a waste because it is not reflected by the object. How to outsmart is to fill in on an object so that even though the setting is very bright but still get the light objects.
2. The sun is above the heavens. This will cause the image appears on the bottom of the nose and chin. Use a flash to eliminate them. To soften the light using bounce card or diffuser.
3. Objects are in the open shade (shadow). Flash is used to obtain the same lighting on the overall image of the object because it will make the dark shades of different parts of objects much less a human face.
4. The sky was blue and seductive. If we are not tempted by the blue sky and willing to get pictures of white sky when shooting outdoors so please do the metering on the object without using a flash or with flash. If we are willing to object as long as the lack of light blue sky please do the metering on the sky. Well, if we want to keep the blue sky and object tercahayai well, use the metering on the sky and fill flash on the object. This will produce the right mix and right.
5. The sky was overcast. When the sky was overcast, do not hesitate to use the flash because the effect would be the same cloud as if we were under the shadow.
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